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Channel: The Art of Vintage Leather Jackets
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1958 Sears D-Pocket motorcycle jacket

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After the introduction of the steerhide version of the Sears D Pocket, the horsehide one was dropped.  The sewn on patch d-pocket of the earlier models gave way to one which was defined by stitching.  The cigarette pocket went from a patch to a interior pocket. 


1960s Sears D-Pocket Motorcycle Jackets

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Through the early to mid 1960s, Sears used the same advertising image of their D-Pocket motorcycle jacket year after year.  These are probably the most common that you see today. These jackets were made under a variety of labels.  Earlier ones were made under the Sears Hercules label, of which there were several versions over the production run. Some were made with Fieldmaster labels, other with Oakbrook sportswear, and later models with labels from "The Leather Shop". 


Sears D-Pocket motorcycle jackets 1968

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There must have been a variety of manufacturers producing these motorcycle jackets for Sears. For a given year of production and style of label, surviving examples show a wide variety of design variations on the D-Pocket, particularly in how the corners are treated.  Some have squared off corners and a well defined D shape, while others are more rounded off and blobby. 

1969, 1970 Sears D Pocket motorcycle jackets

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On the market for 20 years at this point, the basic lines of Sears's D-Pocket jacket changed very little. 

Sideburns, turtlenecks and hiphuggers are in, neckties and pleats are out.



1971, 1972 Sears D-Pocket motorcycle Jackets

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Moving into the "The Leather Shop" era, the jacket acquired the name "The Scrambler". 



Sears D-Pocket leather jacket

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Here's one of these Sears D-pocket motorcycle jackets in the flesh. This is a later production one, late 1960s or early 1970s, with the early style "Leather Shop" label. Zips are all by serval, and the D Pocket extends to the side seam, larger than those on earlier models. The back and epaulettes have been studded by the original owner.


Monarch Horsehide double breasted coat

Buco J-82 Vest

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Here's a J-82 of mine (for a little while longer) that was cut down into a vest by its original biker owner.  It was made in the late 1950s by Buco, is made of steerhide, has talon zippers and a clean, simple D-pocket design.



1951 D pocket

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Rabbits foot and a bow tie.  What a combination.


1929 Shawl Collar horsehide coat

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Make us the finest horsehide coat ever made.

Shawl collar, sheepskin lining, corduroy trim.

1940s Hercules shawl collar horsehide coat

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Although I can not find it in Sears catalogs post-war, this front quarter horsehide leather coat bears a c.1947 Hercules Outerwear label.  The original bakelite buttons were replaced at some point with post-war US Air Force metal buttons, and the belt was removed.  The brown mouton collar on the black leather is a great look.  Inside is corduroy trim and a cotton, as opposed to sheepskin, lining.

1930s Lampelt double breasted horsehide coat

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I'm finally back after a two month architecture design/build in Wilsall, Montana with the Artemis Institute.  
Keep an eye out for a slew of new posts in the following weeks.  - Spencer Stewart


This vintage coat was made in the 1930s and was sold in Boston by Lampelt sportswear, a manufacturer or sheeplined leather coats such as this and of grizzly jackets. The coat is made of horsehide leather, is double breasted, with a broad sheepskin shawl collar, handwarmer pockets, flapped cargo pockets and a belt. The back has a square cut yoke. There are button adjuster tabs on the sleeves. Inside, the jacket has a sheepskin lining, with blanket lined sleeves and brown corduroy trim. These coats were popular pre-war with motorcycle riders and as workwear in the fall and winter. The leather is nicely supple on this example.




G-1 flight jacket with General zipper

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This USN G-1 flight jacket has lost its label and wind-flap over the years. It has a General brand zipper.




AOPA patched G-1 flight jacket

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This G-1 appears to have seen flight time after its USN service, as it bears an AOPA patch on the chest.  The label and original owner's name have been removed and crossed out.











Californian suede Norfolk jacket

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This Californian jacket dates from the 1960s or early 1970s, but has strong design influences from norfolk jackets of the 1920s.  Somewhat surprisingly, the breast pockets are both false. It sports a four button front, classic lapels, and a nicely detailed pleated back.  




Californian leather norfolk jacket

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Here's the seal colored goatskin version of the same model of Californian jacket we looked at yesterday.  I love finding duplicates of the same model. 



Crown zip mouton collared bomber jacket

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This jacket was made post war- late 1940s into the early 1950s.  It has a mouton collar, handwarmer pockets, knit collar and cuffs, a Talon breast pocket zipper and a spring loaded Crown main zip. Unfortunately, the liner and label are gone, although it would have originally had a sheepskin lined body and quilted rayon lined sleeves. More on the history of these post-war "bomber" jackets later.



1920s Leather LINED coat

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Sometimes, it's what's on the inside that counts.  This '20s coat, wool on the outside with a sheepskin collar, has a leather lined body and sleeves for wind resistance.  




1970s Trumpeter D- Pocket

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This 1970s jacket owes a lot to Aviator jackets of the 1930s.  Pointed D-Pocket and small cargo pockets like you find on early Cossack jackets.  Nothing is ever new.



1950s Hercules motorcycle jacket

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This jacket was made in the mid-late 1950s, and was sold by Sears under the Hercules label.  It has an enormous zipped map pocket on the front, a secondary hidden pocket with the zipper in the bi-swing back, and flapped cargo/handwarmer pockets similar to what was commonly used on "bomber" jackets of the period.





I'm currently selling this one to make more room in my collection.

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